Pyramid Valley Central Otago Manatu Pinot Noir 2022

Pyramid Valley Central Otago Manatu Pinot Noir 2022

Pyramid Valley opened a new chapter of its story in 2018 when it purchased Jean and Roger Gibson’s highly regarded Lowburn Ferry vineyard in Central Otago’s Lowburn sub-region. Already winning national awards by 2003, the site was planted in 2000 on a gentle, north-facing slope with 30% own-rooted vines and a mix of clones—some of the oldest Pinot vines in Otago. A supplement of higher-density Pinot Noir was planted on a lower terrace in 2018 by Pyramid Valley’s biodynamic specialist, Nick Paulin, who lives on and manages the property.

Named after the ribbonwood (mānatu) tree, soils are predominantly loess over deep silts that have developed pedogenic lime deposits. 2021 was the final year of organic conversion; as of 2022, the site has been certified organic by BioGro NZ. There are two wines made from this vineyard. The Manatu Pinot is a selection of blocks, while a single-parcel Pinot Noir called Snake Tongue now forms part of the Botanical Selection.

Hand-picked and fermented with indigenous yeasts in open-top concrete and oak fermenters, with 10% whole bunches included. Aged in French oak barrels (20% new) for 12 months before settling in concrete and wooden cuves on light lees for a further six months. All parties involved are clearly hooked by this “special” vineyard whose wine manifests the dark berry plushness and energy of Central Otago, allied to silky structure and chalky drive.

A faint reduction merges seamlessly into oak spice that shows of some classy wood framing baking spice, morello cherry, sous bois, tilled earth and brambles all with a core of sweet fruit vibrancy. There's so much dark fruit here on the palate, all without extraction or saturating concentration. It stays beautifully poised and pure, that classically fanning Pinot texture all the while oscillating between savoury undertones keeping the swathes of sweet fruit in check. This is an absolute cracker from Pyramid valley that blurs the lines between new word and old - as a blind wine you could absolutely call a young Morey-Saint-Denis and I'd be okay with it!