Latour-Giraud Meursault 1er Charmes 2023

Latour-Giraud Meursault 1er Charmes 2023

For a period this Domaine also operated as a negociant and a distiller, though both these other activities had stopped by 1949. It operates out of the Giraud family premises - there have been Girauds in Meursault since 1850, and Latours since at least the 17th century. The Domaine now covers 11ha and is run by Jean-Pierre Latour. He joined his father in 1983 and took over ten years later. The Domaine is farmed organically, without certification.

The whites are direct-pressed, settled if necessary, then encouraged to start to ferment in tank before transfer to barrel, with 20 percent new wood for the village wines and no more than 25 per cent, all in the traditional 228-litre size. There is some lees stirring and the wines are racked to tank after 11 months, then bottled early the following year.

The approach in both colours is classic but not hidebound. Jean-Pierre is very aware that words like 'classic' or 'traditional' can be taken pejoratively. He remains open to change but I suspect rarely needs to do so, as his formula works very well to make un-showy but intense and intricate white wines.

Half and half between upper and lower Charmes. A bright rich lemon colour. Attractive but not especially demonstrative. Offering breadth and depth, there is no edge to the fruit, a significant mouthful of white orchard fruit, mostly at the back of the palate, intelligent oaking, correct acidity, and very persistent. I find more character in one or two of Jean-Pierre Latour’s wines but this is properly Charmes. 91-94 Points - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

Note: from 35+ year old vines in Charmes Dessus. Smoky aromas of vaguely exotic passion fruit, white peach, spice, acacia blossom and plenty of just sliced citrus serve as an elegant introduction to the succulent but energetic flavors that aren't as dense or powerful as those of the Poruzots but do offer equally good depth and even better persistence on the impeccably well-balanced finale. This is terrific and a wine that should age gracefully. Sweet Spot Outstanding! - 91-94 Points, Allen Meadows, Burghound