Latour-Giraud Bourgogne Blanc 2023

Latour-Giraud Bourgogne Blanc 2023

For a period this Domaine also operated as a negociant and a distiller, though both these other activities had stopped by 1949. It operates out of the Giraud family premises - there have been Girauds in Meursault since 1850, and Latours since at least the 17th century. The Domaine now covers 11ha and is run by Jean-Pierre Latour. He joined his father in 1983 and took over ten years later. The Domaine is farmed organically, without certification.

The whites are direct-pressed, settled if necessary, then encouraged to start to ferment in tank before transfer to barrel, with 20 percent new wood for the village wines and no more than 25 per cent, all in the traditional 228-litre size. There is some lees stirring and the wines are racked to tank after 11 months, then bottled early the following year.

The approach in both colours is classic but not hidebound. Jean-Pierre is very aware that words like 'classic' or 'traditional' can be taken pejoratively. He remains open to change but I suspect rarely needs to do so, as his formula works very well to make un-showy but intense and intricate white wines.

From the upper part of Les Vaux. Mid lemon, summer flowers, a very cheerful Bourgogne Blanc which does not deny its Meursault neighbours. Stunning concentration behind. Jean-Pierre Latour has got this exactly right. Drink from 2026-2028. 88-91 Points '5 Star Wine' - Jasper Morris, InsideBurgundy.com