Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Blanc de Noirs 2015

Larmandier Bernier 1er Cru Blanc de Noirs 2015

Larmandier-Bernier tends just 1.2-hectares of old-vine Pinot Noir in Vertus, grown on the southern side of the village where the soil is a little richer, with higher clay content. These vines are best known as the source for the domaine’s pioneering Rosé de Saignée. Over the years Pierre Larmandier has also made a little still wine from these vines—in the past, Vertus Rouge was as famous as the red wines of Bouzy—but, until now, never a Blanc de Noirs.

2015 was a beautiful year for Pinot Noir in Vertus, leading Larmandier to vinify a white Champagne from these grapes alongside the rosé. It’s made in the same way as the domaine’s Terre de Vertus, with the base wine naturally fermented and raised in a mixture of large cask and vat for 11 months on lees and tiraged in July 2016. Following almost six years in bottle, it was disgorged in May 2022 with zero dosage to preserve the natural richness of the Pinot Noir.

The result is wonderfully complex and vinous Blanc de Noirs. A scintillating cocktail of red apple, sour berry compote and rushing minerals introduces a powerfully structured palate balanced by a rigid spine of freshness and tense, holding grip. It's very Larmandier and very delicious; a champagne of exceptional detail and vinous depth.

Since the Larmandiers felt they had picked a touch too early to produce their emblematic rosé in the 2015 vintage, they elected instead to produce the 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs, an attractively pillowy, racy, medium to full-bodied Champagne redolent of freshly baked bread, orchard fruit and buttery pastry. Concluding with a long, chalky finish, it represents a fine success. William Kelley, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate