Krug Clos du Mesnil 1998

Krug Clos du Mesnil 1998

In 1971, the discovery of a walled plot in the heart of the Champagne region led to what has now become a House of Krug legend: Rémi and Henri Krug, 5th generation of the Krug family, after just one telephone call, seized on instinct an opportunity to purchase 6 hectares (14.35 acres) of vines, split into around 15 plots located in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.

When the brothers went to visit their new vineyards, they discovered nestled among the houses, the walled plot of Clos du Mesnil. Etched into the stone wall, Rémi and Henri Krug found the words “In the year 1698, this wall was built by Claude Jannin and Pierre Dehée Metoen and in the same year the vines were planted by Gaspard Jannin, son of Claude.”

In 1979, the Krug brothers decided to make a Champagne created exclusively from grapes of this Clos and this single year. Krug Clos du Mesnil 1979 was born at a time when the conventions in Champagne concentrated on blending multiple wines from varied plots.

Tasted at Berry Brothers & Rudd. Harvested between 24th and 26th September in perfect sunshine. The nose is very succinct, not one that comes out and immediately grabs you, imbued with an almost ethereal quality, as if it is hovering it the ether. Faint hints of spring morning dew, cold granite, a hint of smoke; all with absolutely bewitching delineation. The palate displays more elegance than power, beautifully defined, suffused with a sense of femininity. It seems to hang suspended in the mouth rather than penetrating the palate. Again, there is a sublime sense of mineralité (à la Anne-Claude Leflaive) towards the persistent finish with a beguiling sense of symmetry. Incredible length and focus. Awesome. Tasted October 2008. 98 Points - Neal Martin, RobertParker.com