Keller Weisser Burgunder and Chardonnay Trocken 2023
It's like a mythical blend of Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru and Corton Charlemagne with just a little dash of slight skin-contact phenolics grown on limestone to add more linearity, texture and electric nervosity. This is a fully dry white at just under 13% alc. with a mineral first impression, fruit following but with a real depth on the palate, a textural twist almost bordering on chewy, and a slight spiced apple and "warm dough" nuance, powerful yet restrained. Pear and grapefruit have freshness and the oak is well buried. It has impressive length, concentration and ageability.
‘This is unquestionably another brilliant series of wines, the Rieslings in particular keeping a remarkable balance of freshness and ripe fruit during a very hot run-up to the harvest when it would have been easy to get richness yet lose the vital, energising acidity, even with a high-acid variety like Riesling.’ Julia Harding, jancisrobinson.com
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