Keller RR Riesling 2023
The Keller Riesling RR usually comes from the heart of the Kirchspiel grossen lagen (grand cru), where the soil is decomposed reddish limestone. This is a flamboyant and exotic wine that Keller ‘lets off the hook’ – usually only a single cask that does not ferment to full dryness. The small amount of residual sweetness lends both opulence and exoticism, matches with a killer line of acidity. KP has joked that in vintages like this the RR stands for Rolls Royce! This is a wine that ages beautifull. The 2023 will age for 10 or even 20 years.
The wine has ripe yellow stone fruit with some tropical qualities bursting from the glass, wreathed in smoky, black tea and warm ‘red-earth’ petrichor. The palate is plush but has plenty of phenolic grip and the ‘pull’ of a dry finish, together with excellent minerality and sizzling acidity. Further yellow and tropical fruits abound including peach and kernel, kumquat, and zesty orange citrus piths. The perfect balance of weight with lip-smacking moreishness. The finish is long and very stony, the iron-ore/reddish rock providing a beautiful petrichor close.
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