Julian Haart Old Vines Kabinett 2024

Julian Haart Old Vines Kabinett 2024

Julian Haart is based in Piesporter further south down the Mosel River from Welen and Graach. Piesporter’s famous vineyards are Goldtröpchen, Schubertslay (made famous by Keller’s purchase of a parcel), Domherr and Kreuztwingert. His Oenological and Viticultural education has been second to none - having worked with Mosel giants Heymann-Lowenstein and Egon Muller, as well as the famed Klaus Peter Keller of Rheinhessen famed Keller for over 3 years.

His return to Piesporter in 2010 saw him take over some very small holdings - 0.5Ha of century old vines in Wintricher Ohligsberg as well as a singular hectare of the famed Schubertslay, planted in 1904 on own roots. Subsequent purchases have grown holdings to 4Ha - with the intention to stay at this size. Everything here is done in house - Julian and his wife Nadine control all aspects of viticulture - everything done by hand as all the vineyards are terraced and on incredibly steep slopes.

This is a young estate on the absolute rise - the attention to detail here is second to none. clarity and elegance, one importer described them as having muscle and sinew but that underplays the purity, these are thoroughbred wines. The 2024s in particularly sing, with such a low dose of UV exposure during ripening through August and September they remain aromatically fresh and intense - the vintage reminiscent of classically humid years of 2013 and 2012 albeit with microscopically low yields.

Don't sleep on this up and coming star! 

"There is general consensus in the informed wine world that the former star pupil of Klaus Peter Keller is one of the greatest talents of the German wine industry in the last 20 years." - Jancis Robinson MW

Immediately fresh, this needs a little time in the glass to open up and blow off some of that free sulfur, admittedly the most vibrant flinty style of sulphur, none of that reduced, baby sick type thing you can encounter at other Mosel houses. Underneath all of that is immense elegance, exotic florals, some hibiscus flower, bath salts, lemonade icy pole, talc and just absolute electric purity. The shape of the acidity is so pertinent here as it plays off in this grapefruit, lemon pith, mineral water, tonic bitter grip that carries such a savoury profile to balance all of the exoticism through the mid. Its such an excellent drink that will genuinely outlive myself. 7.5% Alc. Bottled under Screwcap.