Julian Haart 'Haart' Riesling 2024
Julian Haart is based in Piesporter further south down the Mosel River from Welen and Graach. Piesporter’s famous vineyards are Goldtröpchen, Schubertslay (made famous by Keller’s purchase of a parcel), Domherr and Kreuztwingert. His Oenological and Viticultural education has been second to none - having worked with Mosel giants Heymann-Lowenstein and Egon Muller, as well as the famed Klaus Peter Keller of Rheinhessen famed Keller for over 3 years.
His return to Piesporter in 2010 saw him take over some very small holdings - 0.5Ha of century old vines in Wintricher Ohligsberg as well as a singular hectare of the famed Schubertslay, planted in 1904 on own roots. Subsequent purchases have grown holdings to 4Ha - with the intention to stay at this size. Everything here is done in house - Julian and his wife Nadine control all aspects of viticulture - everything done by hand as all the vineyards are terraced and on incredibly steep slopes.
This is a young estate on the absolute rise - the attention to detail here is second to none. clarity and elegance, one importer described them as having muscle and sinew but that underplays the purity, these are thoroughbred wines. The 2024s in particularly sing, with such a low dose of UV exposure during ripening through August and September they remain aromatically fresh and intense - the vintage reminiscent of classically humid years of 2013 and 2012 albeit with microscopically low yields.
Don't sleep on this up and coming star!
From young vines in the Goldtropfchen and Falkenberg vineyards in the village of Piesport, and the Ohligsberg vineyard in the neighbouring village of Wintrich. Aged in large, old foudre. 11% Alcohol.
Immensely enjoyable straight out the gate - this is a wine full of fun and charming aromatics, orange and mandarin rind, chalk dust, quartz, so pure and layered, yet at the same time so singularly Riesling. There's an exoticism to the fruit that speaks of Mosel, but at the same time its managed in such a way that it's electric acidity and pithy savoury components render this nowhere near the realm of "sweet". Too often many people are scared of stepping into the German realm of Riesling, worried about the sweetness of the wines. This is not an issue here - 11% alcohol, tensile, zesty acidity and the essence of purity. An absolute belter at the price and a great opportunity for those to test the waters on what great Germanic Riesling can look like!
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