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Elanto Chardonnay 2023
"I’m not sure that I’ve ever seen anything quite like the new Elanto vineyard on the Mornington Pensinula. Is it Australia’s largest close-planted vineyard? You’d reckon. It was all planted in one go, in 2018, and when I say all I mean 10.6 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in one continuous vineyard, with rows only 1.2 metres apart, and vines only 0.75 metres apart. This spacing and this area means that the Elanto vineyard is 10.6 hectares of 11,111 vines each hectare, which equates to a vineyard made up of 117, 777 individual vines, arranged into eight separate blocks. The fact that it has all gone in essentially at once, and that it’s all trained to within an inch of its life, and that it was all mapped according to expert geological consultation – not to mention that no expense at any point along the way has been spared – means that even to a non-expert eye it’s abundantly clear that something extraordinary is in the works here.
The location of this vineyard is an elevated, south-east facing site at Balnarring, overlooking Western Port Bay. Basically this is a remarkable site and the start of what promises to be a pretty special journey. Sandro Mosele, noted former winemaker of Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate, is in charge of the winemaking, and of plenty more besides.
Elanto is not open to the public, and doesn t plan to have a cellar door, though in time it will take appointments. I travelled to see the vineyard more or less for one reason: because the winemaker behind it is Sandro Mosele, the former highly-awarded winemaker at Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate. Sandro is generally afforded guru status. I parked out the front of the vineyard, not knowing that the road to the winery is, like Sandro Mosele s career in wine, long and winding. As I walked up this road the vineyard appeared over the rise of land to my right, and as it did the story stopped being about Sandro, and became almost entirely about the vineyard.
I say almost because Sandro Mosele has never stopped working in and with wine, but he s disappeared from public view for the better part of a decade. Elanto is Sandro Mosele s triumphant return. I m putting words in his mouth when I say that he has a point to prove but, whether he feels that way or not, that s how it comes across. This isn t just any old return to the tools. This is zero to 100, if not zero to 1000. This land, once a chicory farm but more recently used to graze animals, has now reached its ultimate destination: as one of the best vineyards in Australia.
'This is seriously good. The intensity of fruit is the thing, and the associated length, though there’s a keen textural element and just plenty of wow factor besides. Yellow peach, citrus, nougat, honeycomb and lemon blossom notes charge thoughout. There’s a lot of fruit, a deal of acidity, and a sizeable serve of oak, but all work together and all feel commanding. -
95 points, Campbell Mattinson - The Wine Front
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