Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Rouge 2020

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Rouge 2020

Jaeger-Defaix is the family domaine of Hélène Defaix, wife of Didier Defaix (of Chablis producer Domaine Bernard Defaix). Most of the Jaeger-Defaix vineyards are Premier Cru and brilliantly situated. All the vineyards are managed organically. Given the family connection, it won’t surprise you to hear that this small five-hectare domaine is run in the same earth-to-glass spirit as Didier’s family Estate in Chablis. The connection to the land here is strong and goes back three generations—the great-grandfather of Hélène, Henri Niepce, was instrumental in achieving and promoting Rully’s AOC status in the 1930s.

The first vintage under Hélène and Didier’s full control was 2004. Since that time, they’ve built a strong reputation for cool, refreshingly elegant Chardonnay and sweetly scented, juicy Pinot Noir, all of which cost appreciably less money than wines of similar quality from 

Jaeger-Defaix’s newest red cuvée (100% Pinot Noir) comes from a small parcel of Rully villages purchased in 2011. Sited in the Vorot lieu-dit, the 30-year-old vines here have been farmed organically for decades. This is a well-sited parcel that yields small bunches of grapes with thick skins and concentrated juice. The fruit this year was fermented with 20% whole bunches and the wine was aged in seasoned oak barrels (from one to three years) for 15 months.

The nose is an engaging and perfumed brew of red fruits, bramble and briar, with some bunchy notes peeking through. The palate has density and texture with bright acidity and well-judged tannin wrapping around a core of deliciously silky fruit. Impressive length keeps you tethered to the glass.